‘Unravel’ textile exhibition

Poster for the 'Unravel' exhibition at the Barbican Art Gallery, 2024

Last week, I visited the Barbican Centre London to see a large exhibition of contemporary textiles.

The Barbican, London, photo by Amanda Jane Textiles

The Barbican’s description of the exhibition is as follows:

Using textiles, fibre and thread, 50 international artists challenge power structures and reimagine the world in this major group exhibition.

Here is a ‘poster’ (displayed on lift doors) for the exhibition, showing one half of two distinct pieces in the exhibition an outlining the important subtitle for the show ‘The politics and power of Textiles in art’.

Publicity for the ‘Unravel’ exhibition on the lift doors in The Barbican, photo by Amanda Jane Ogden

This made for an exhibition with wide-ranging themes, submitted by artists from all over the world. The pieces ranged from a small fabric sculpture, not much bigger than a hand to a room-sized installation. It would be impossible to do the whole exhibition justice, so here I will just share some of the pieces I saw.

Below is the small sculpture I referred to earlier. It is a reddish, female form lying horizontally whose shadow is cast onto the base beneath the piece. The figure is clearly formed from wrapped fabric and its back is arched. It looks vulnerable and isolated hanging in space. The artist is apparently exploring the idea of ‘hysteria’ once thought to be a particularly  female complaint and of which an arched back was felt to be a symptom.

‘Arch of Hysteria’ Louise Bourgeois, in the ‘Unravel’ exhibition 2024 at The Barbican, London, photo by Amanda Jane Ogden

This is the room-sized installation mentioned above. It is difficult to show it well in a single photograph. It comprises areas of fine threads arranged in cloud-like shapes hung with glass and pearl beads and metal charms.

Installation by Igshaan Adams, at the ‘Unravel’ exhibition 2024 at The Barbican, London, photo by Amanda Jane Ogden

Here is a closer look at one area.

Installation by Igshaan Adams (detail), in the ‘Unravel’ exhibition 2024 at The Barbican, London, photo by Amanda Jane Ogden

According to information provided by the artist, the work is an exploration of ‘desire lines’ (worn-down pathways) in post-Apartheid South Africa. He is portraying the idea of sincere prayers somehow being caught up in clouds and so remaining unanswered. A mysterious and beautiful artwork.

A collection of ‘arpilleras’ from Chile was on display. These are appliquéd and embroidered pieces, made by individuals and groups (who remain anonymous) depict scenes from daily life and at times express political resistance. This piece shows a group making arpilleras:

Arpillera from Chile in the ‘Unravel’ exhibition 2024 at The Barbican, London, photo by Amanda Jane Ogden

Faith Ringgold’s colourful piece below tells a narrative of a young girl and her family living in Harlem, New York. The girl shown lying on her mattress is also shown flying away into the sky with her brother.

‘Tar Beach 2’ by Faith Ringgold, 1990-92. in the ‘Unravel’ exhibition 2024 at The Barbican, London, photo by Amanda Jane Ogden

Another piece depicts the lives of Roma people in a sympathetic and positive way. The artist uses found fabrics; the colours and the composition are decorative and attractive.

‘Out of Egypt’ by Malgorzata Mirga-Tas, 2021, in the ‘Unravel’ exhibition 2024 at The Barbican, London, photo by Amanda Jane Ogden

This piece by Tracey Emin, an exploration of her own feelings in 1977 as a teenager aged 13. Made 22 years after the year in question it is still full of anguish and rage – a powerful artwork.

'No chance' (WHAT A YEAR) by Tracey Emin 1999
‘No chance’ (WHAT A YEAR) by Tracey Emin 1999, in the ‘Unravel’ exhibition 2024 at The Barbican, London, photo by Amanda Jane Ogden

The exhibition runs until Sunday 26th May 2024.

You can see more information on the Barbican website: www.barbican.org.uk


Here are two pattersns for single-bed quilts. This is ‘Starstruck’ – buy the pattern here

Starstruck quilt pattern by Amanda Jane Textiles

This is ‘Seaweed’ – find the pattern here

Seaweed quilt pattern by Amanda Jane Textiles

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Published by Amanda Jane Textiles

Artist, designer, maker and teacher

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